To start with, you need to uproot the sliding board and the stationary board. The larger part of doors out there have the sliding board within a large portion of the track, and the stationary board is all things considered. Whatever the case in your specific door, the outside board needs to turn out first. To evacuate the settled board, you have to uproot the ledge top that snaps into the bottom track and keeps running from the altered board to the side support where the sliding board locks. Power a screwdriver into the wrinkle and pry the top up. At that point, search for screws within side frame holding the settled board set up. These screws keep somebody from prying up the ledge top and hauling out the settled board keeping in mind the end goal to pick up passage into the home. Notwithstanding the side frame, make sure to check over the top header and bottom track for screws there too. When all the screws have been uprooted, you have to draw the altered board far from the side support. You can begin by basically getting the side rail of the settled board and pulling as hard as possible. In case you're fortunate, the board will pop free. At that point you can lift the board up similarly as it will go into the top channel and swing the bottom far from the track, and evacuate the board. Presently, I said "in case you're fortunate", in light of the fact that as a rule the board will be stuck in the side frame, the bottom track, or both. As a rule, you're going to need to utilize a pry bar to extricate the altered board before it will slide out of the side support. When the altered board is out, evacuation of the sliding board is normally simpler. Simply lift up and swing the bottom far from the track, then uproot the board. In some cases the bottom rollers will keep the bottom from swinging out of the track. On the off chance that that is the situation, you will need to discover the roller alteration gap in the bottom corners of the sliding board. Put a screwdriver into this gap and turn the screw counterclockwise to bring the roller as far up into the bottom of the sliding board as could be expected under the circumstances. This ought to permit the slider to turn out.
Presently, you need to expel all the screws from the side frames, top header, and bottom track. At that point, take a pry bar and get it under the bottom track about in the middle. Pry up until the track is isolated from the floor. The following step will rely on upon whether your old edge is nailed to the house casing, or just tightened. On the off chance that its tightened, then the casing ought to now be free in the opening, since you uprooted the majority of the screws. You simply need to uproot whatever inside trim there may be around the door outline. This kind of casing ought to turn out. On the off chance that your door is nailed to the house outline, you will need to do some more work. Utilize a hacksaw to slice the track down the middle, roughly in the inside. Begin with either half and raise the cut piece up towards the side support until the track piece isolates from the side pillar. Do likewise to the next half.
In this way, now you need to evacuate the side frames. You need to do this without harming the outside material that encompasses the door outline. Take an overwhelming etch and pound it into the break between the edge and outside material, whether its stucco, siding, and so forth. Begin at the bottom 6 inches first. What you are attempting to do is draw the nail blade far from the nails holding it set up. Thus, once the etch is beat through the metal casing, pry far from the side divider. The heavier and more the etch, the more influence you will have. You will hear the edge "pop" free of the nail. There will be a few nails holding every support set up, so you need to begin at the bottom and work your way to the top corner. When you get the bottom third free, commonly you can get the frame with both hands and force whatever is left of the nails free as you go up. When you get to the top corner, work the support free. Do both supports, then do the top. Some of the time the top has no nails, or only one in the inside, so it will descend pretty effectively. Make certain to wear security glasses and a dust cover while doing this occupation, particularly when uprooting the top header.
Right now you are prepared to install the new door. The installation method is somewhat diverse, contingent upon whether you're installing a retrofit style casing or a replacement outline. We will examine both systems one week from now.